A couple of weeks back, my infatuation brought us to a Fort Greene, Brooklyn restaurant called Mettā, where they prepare everything on an open flame (if you visit, try to go on a chilly evening and grab a seat at the counter, it’s definitely worth it). The chef, who is a protégé of Mallman, cooks or finishes each dish using this method. The dessert selection features a renowned ash-roasted sweet potato served with an infused whipped cream*. Although it tasted great, forgive me, I didn’t have the same awe-inspiring experience that other restaurant critics had, but I still made a point to remember it for future reference. Just two days later, I unexpectedly came across a slow-roasted and charred sweet potato recipe by Michael Solomonov in Saveur. And, because it was such an “obvious” progression from Patagonia to Fort Greene and then to Solomonov’s dish, it felt like it was meant to be.
I won’t assert that this dish is suitable for weekdays or even weekends. It may seem as daunting as owning a private island in Patagonia to devote almost 3 hours to bake a potato. Nevertheless, I merely urge you to commit to trying it when the opportunity arises.
When a sweet potato is rubbed with salt and pepper, baked at 275 degrees for 2 1/2 hours, and finished under the broiler, something magical happens. The flesh becomes sweeter, bolder, and more complex than you would think possible, while the crispy, salty, and slightly charred skin causes you to regret every sweet potato you had before not tasting like this.
We were reminded of the time we visited a restaurant in Paris, where a friend recommended us to order the Corleone without disclosing any details. To our surprise, it was a delicious candied eggplant confit with hints of orange zest, cinnamon, and served with a side of ricotta ice cream. The memory of it is still vivid and worth mentioning here, even a decade later.
Rewritten:
One year ago: Pizza with Broccoli
Two years ago: Taco Torte and Black Sesame Miso Caramel Popcorn
Three years ago: Crumble with Chocolate and Oats
Four years ago: Party Bread with Garlic, Herbs, and Cheese and Salad with Fennel and Blood Orange
Five years ago: Pickled Celery and Coarse Dijon Egg Salad
Six years ago: Bolognese Lasagna
Seven years ago: Caramelized Onion Meatball Sub
Eight years ago: Best Cocoa Brownies and New York Deli Rye Bread
Nine years ago: Chicken Milanese and Escarole Salad, Flaky Blood Orange Tart, and Warm Butternut Squash and Chickpea Salad.
Ten years ago: Matzo Ball Soup.
Eleven years ago: Mini Soft Pretzels.
Burst Tomato Galette with Corn and Zucchini, 4.5 Years Ago
Slow-Roasted Sweet Potatoes
Yield: 4 servings
Preparation Time: 3 hours
Source: Michael Solomonov via Saveur
The first time we prepared these sweet potatoes, I topped them with a sizzling toasted spice oil, which is similar to the tadka or chaunk used in Indian cuisine. I added a dollop of lightly salted, lemony yogurt on the side, as well as a small pile of black lentils. It was fantastic, but I couldn’t help but feel that the sweet potato was so exceptional that it deserved to be the star of the dish. The second time I made them, I included a roasted garlic yogurt sauce and finished the sweet potatoes with pats of salted butter. It was so delicious that I almost cried. So, rest assured that this dish can stand alone without any additional fuss. We also enjoyed a side of red cabbage salad, although we barely remember it, as this dish was the true standout.
4 sweet potatoes of medium size (approximately 3 pounds), thoroughly cleaned
4 teaspoons of olive oil
2 teaspoons of kosher salt
1 teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 275°F. Place the sweet potatoes on a large baking sheet lined with aluminum foil. Rub each potato with 1 teaspoon of olive oil, 1/2 teaspoon of salt (this will create a slightly salty skin, use less if desired) and 1/4 teaspoon of pepper until they are evenly coated. Bake the potatoes for approximately 2 1/2 hours, until they are very soft on the inside and caramelized on the bottom. Turn on the broiler and place the potatoes underneath it. Depending on the strength of your broiler, this will take approximately 5 to 10 minutes, so check frequently. If you have a strong broiler, it may only take 1 to 2 minutes. Once the tops are lightly charred, let the potatoes cool for 10 minutes before gently crushing them with your hands to expose the flesh. Season with salt and finish with a pat of butter or your preferred toppings. Here are some additional topping ideas:
Slow-cooked Sweet Potatoes with Spicy Flavors: To prepare each sweet potato, heat 2 to 3 teaspoons of a flavorless oil or ghee (not suitable for vegans) on medium-high heat. Add 1/2 teaspoon of cumin seeds and 1/2 teaspoon of yellow or brown mustard seeds and fry them until they crackle and pop, which usually takes roughly 20 to 30 seconds. Include 1/2 teaspoon of finely chopped garlic and red pepper flakes to your liking, and then fry for another 15 seconds. Immediately pour the mixture onto the exposed potato flesh and sprinkle some salt to finish. We accompanied this with salted yogurt mixed with lemon juice and some side black lentils.
Slow-Roasted Sweet Potatoes with Roasted Garlic Yogurt (non-vegan): Begin by cutting a head of garlic in half crosswise and drizzling the exposed garlic with a little oil or butter and a pinch of salt. Next, “close” the garlic again and wrap the head tightly in foil. Place the wrapped garlic on a baking sheet with the sweet potatoes and roast until the potatoes are soft and fully cooked. Once the potatoes are done, remove the garlic cloves from their paper shells using a knife point and mash them with a fork in a small bowl. Add 1/2 cup of plain yogurt (or more to taste) to the mashed garlic and mix well. Finally, season the mixture with salt and pepper. For an extra touch of flavor, put pats of salted butter on the exposed potato flesh and dollop the yogurt-garlic mixture on top.
