[Note: Updated with fresh photos in 2018. Despite its appearance, this recipe remains delicious.]
With just three simple ingredients, I have created the most delicious yet unattractive dish ever. It took three weeks of obsessing, but the end result was well worth it. You probably assumed it was a culinary disaster, didn’t you?
This idea was formed last month, when Regina Schrambling proclaimed on Epicurious’ Epi-Log that the optimal method for enjoying summer berries is to incorporate a source of fat. I needed no further prompting! However, the finest aspect of her post was hidden toward the end – a brief description of a recipe from New American Classics by Jeremiah Tower (whose hairstyle seemed recognizable…) wherein berries, sour cream, and dark brown sugar are toasted together in a shallow dish, producing a dish termed a “Russian Gratin.”
Since then, I have been completely consumed by this idea. I’m not exaggerating, just ask my poor husband – I recently explained to him that, as a Russian person, it was his destiny to love this dessert. My determination to make it was unyielding, but it proved to be a challenging feat. Initially, I was disappointed to discover that the recipe book was no longer in print. Although I ordered a used copy, I couldn’t wait for it to arrive – I needed to make it immediately! However, it took three separate trips to the Greenmarket to find raspberries that weren’t covered in mold. (I prefer my fruit to start rotting five minutes after I get home.) Furthermore, I overlooked a small yet crucial detail: my oven’s broiler doesn’t work very well. Due to my landlord’s tendency to purchase the cheapest possible appliances, every time I put something under the broiler, the pilot light goes out a minute later. (The result is a deliciously gassy br?lĂ©e!) My failed attempt to finish the dessert with a blowtorch only made matters worse – the brown sugar immediately caught on fire, which resulted in not only a gassy but also a smoky finish. In the end, I reluctantly accepted that my dessert was simply as good as it was going to get.
“This dish is beyond amazing” would be a more fitting description than “As good as it was going to get”. It’s a heavenly half-cooked gratin dish with a crispy and charred texture. Although I’ve never come across anything quite like it, I’m confident that, even until eternity, whenever I have five minutes to whip up a dessert (or possibly longer because I can’t think of any other compelling reason to prepare something else), this will be it. I may occasionally jazz it up with crème fra?che instead of sour cream, perhaps experiment with different berries, or acquire a broiler that functions better, but I guarantee that, even if it’s burnt, incompletely cooked, and made using store-bought inorganic sour cream with berries on the verge of being thrown away, this dish still ranks as the best thing I’ve eaten from my kitchen in weeks.
A year ago: Pie with Peaches and Crème Fra?che and Asparagus with Chorizo and Croutons
Two years ago: Dill Sugar Snaps and Radishes
Three years ago: Soup made with Red Pepper
Gratin with Brown Sugar and Raspberry (Russian Gratin with Raspberries)
Yield: 4 to 6 servingsTime: 10 minutesSource: Recipe adapted from Jeremiah Tower’s New American Classics by Regina SchramblingPrint
While there are numerous variations you could try, such as infusing lemon, vanilla, cinnamon, or almond into the sour cream or utilizing a mixture of berries, this recipe is exemplary as is. If you desire to elevate it for a more sophisticated crowd, try preparing it in single-serve ramekins or petite gratin dishes.
[Addition included] Aha, I’ve got a suggestion — Why not use thick, creamy full-fat Greek-style yogurt instead of sour cream next time you serve brunch? I’m sure it’ll be met with a round of applause, or at least I would applaud.
1 pint of fresh raspberries (or any other berry of your choice)
1 pint of sour cream (or crème fra?che)
1 cup of dark brown sugar (190 grams)
Preheat the broiler. Carefully mix the raspberries and sour cream together in a shallow 1-quart dish. Use a sieve or mesh colander to sprinkle the brown sugar evenly over the top of the mixture. (Avoid using a sifter as it won’t work.) Place the dish under the broiler until the sugar starts to caramelize. Serve immediately.
Suggested rewrite: Despite appearing unappetizing and resembling a food graveyard in your refrigerator, I guarantee that the leftovers are just as tasty.
