I have neglected for too long to give the due praise to one of the great Roman pizzas, pizza con patate e rosmarino (which, like most things, sounds much more enchanting in Italian than the dull translation of “potato pizza with rosemary”). I first mentioned potato pizza here in 2008, but I never felt that the recipe did justice to it. Jim Lahey, who had recently revolutionized our knowledge of bread making with his brilliant no-knead boule, was about to open a pizzeria and had shared his recipe for potato pizza with Martha Stewart, but I had trouble with it – the proportions seemed wrong (not enough potato, a delicate dough), it was lacking some important details (such as how large it was supposed to be), and it had troublesome steps (such as soaking the potatoes in several changes of ice water, which is not enjoyable if one does not have one of those fancy fridges with ice makers). However, it was not until I visited Rome in 2013 that I realized just how far off it was from the ideal. (Don’t worry, Lahey is coming to our rescue in a bit.)
Roman-style potato pizza is a unique dish. The dough is soft, almost gooey, and not usually rolled out or tossed in the air like in a cartoon. Instead, it is stretched, pressed, nudged, and patted into a thin, rectangular shape with oiled or floured fingertips. The potatoes, soaked in salt water until they’re as floppy as deli slices, are layered generously to the edges of the dough, with an extra layer around the edges for added crispiness. When baked, the crust becomes chewy and crisp, while the buried layers of potato become soft, and the ones on top curl, brown, and crisp like potato chips. You can even boast that you’re indulging in potato chip pizza for dinner, making the envy of others apparent on their faces.
This dish exemplifies minimalism and is reminiscent of traditional Roman cooking. Despite being a simple dish made with only potatoes, onions, and rosemary, it is a triumph for weeknight cooking. Furthermore, it is vegan as it requires only olive oil, salt, pepper, water, flour, and yeast. Though it may sound dense, it is actually quite the opposite – we enjoy it best with a fresh green salad or, if available, spring vegetables such as asparagus and ramps. This is especially delightful if the weather is not too hot where you are.
Some other popular pizza choices:
One year ago: Avocado Cucumber Salad that’s Unbelievably Delicious
Two years ago: Hearty Three Bean Chili
Three years ago: Feta and Tahini Lentil Chickpea Salad
Four years ago: A Decadent Mushroom Quiche
Five years ago: Creating a Flawless Apple Tarte Tatin
Six years ago: Hazelnut Chocolate Thumbprint Cookies and Baked Kale Chips
Seven years ago: Beef Empanadas
Eight years ago: Shaker Lemon Pie
Nine years ago: Arugula Ravioli and Mixed Berry Pavlova
And for the opposite side of the globe:
Six months ago: Potato Pizza, perfected
1.5 years ago: The Ultimate Crispy Egg Recipe
2.5 years ago: Gourmet Frico Grilled Cheese Sandwiches
3.5 years ago: Creamy Broccoli Pesto Spaghetti Recipe
4.5 years ago: Delicious Apple Pie Cookies
Even Better: The Improved Potato Pizza Recipe
Derived from Jim Lahey’s My Bread.
Remarks:
Potato pizza is a variant of the acclaimed Roman bread, pizza bianca, which contains only olive oil, rosemary, and salt. Pizza al taglio, which is considered daytime pizza in Rome, is cooked in electric ovens in big rectangular or oblong shapes, cut to the size you desire, and sold by weight. This was the delicious modification that emerged because wood-burning ovens were not permitted to function until 6 p.m. in Rome. As opposed to most pizzas currently popular, this pizza is not designed for 900-degree pizza ovens that are typically absent in households, but for those ovens that we already possess. While it would be incredible in a wood-fired pizza oven, if you don’t have one in your tiny studio walk-up, you are not going to start this recipe at a disadvantage. Lahey himself rescued the pizza recipe in 2012 with an easier-to-follow recipe that I’ve had enormous success with despite struggling with his initial published version. The newly updated recipe determines precisely how big your tray should be, employs more potatoes, and has a simpler way of preparing them, just look at the results. (Don’t inspect too close. I almost burned mine as I was preoccupied with a baby.)
Interested in making it with sweet potatoes? The recipe [Pizza Batata] calls for slightly more water (4 1/2 cups) for the same amount of salt, and only 2 sweet potatoes (800 grams) were used. The rosemary is skipped.
1 portion of pizza dough recipe (see below) or about 2/3 amount of my favorite recipe that can be adjusted to fit your schedule, or your own favorite recipe
4 teaspoons of fine sea salt or table salt
6 to 8 small to medium sized Yukon Gold potatoes (1 kilogram), peeled
1 diced medium-sized yellow onion
1/2 teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper
Around 4 to 5 tablespoons of olive oil
Approximately 1 tablespoon of fresh rosemary leaves
In a medium-sized bowl, combine 1 quart of lukewarm water with salt, stirring until the salt has dissolved. Use a mandoline or your sharpest knife to slice the potatoes thinly, about 1/16 inch thick, and place the slices directly into the saltwater. This will help prevent oxidation and soften them for better cooking. Lahey suggests soaking for 1 1/2 hours, or up to 12 in the refrigerator overnight, but I achieved satisfactory results after soaking for 25 to 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 500°F and place a rack in the center. Brush olive oil onto either one 13×18-inch rimmed half-sheet pan or two 9×13-inch quarter-sheet pans (as shown). Divide the risen dough in half and, using oiled or floured fingertips, stretch, pull, nudge, and press the dough onto the bottom of the pan. Expect the dough to be thin and uneven. If any holes appear, simply pinch them together. Don’t worry, it will all come together in the end.
After draining the potatoes in a colander, use your hands to extract the excess water and dry them with paper towels. Combine potato slices, onion, pepper, and olive oil in a medium-sized bowl. Cover the dough with this potato mixture, making sure to reach the edges to avoid any uncovered space; add a bit more topping around the edges as the outside tends to cook quickly. Sprinkle rosemary evenly on top. Usually, the salt from soaking the potatoes may suffice, but you may add more if desired.
Bake the pizza in the oven for around 25-30 minutes, until the topping begins to turn golden brown and the crust is perfectly bronzed from the bottom. You can serve the pizza while hot or at room temperature.
Recipe for Jim Lahey’s Basic Pizza Dough
This recipe has been halved and slightly modified.
250 grams of all-purpose or bread flour, with 1 tablespoon subtracted (equals 2 cups)
5 grams of instant or active dry yeast (equals 1 1/4 teaspoons)
A slightly rounded 1/4 teaspoon of fine sea or table salt
A slightly rounded 1/4 teaspoon of granulated sugar
150 grams (2/3 cups) water, at room temperature.
Combine the flour, yeast, salt, and sugar in a medium-sized bowl. Add the water and mix well using a wooden spoon or your hand for about 30 seconds, until the ingredients are well combined. Cover the bowl and leave it at room temperature for around 2 hours, until the dough has doubled in size. Follow the instructions as mentioned above.
